Introduction
If one were to describe the "typical" lighthouse,
it would probably be a tall, white, circular tower, made of brick
or stone, with black trim and a few slender windows. It would
be located on the open coast, warning ships of treacherous surf
or dangerous rocks. Indeed, some of America's best known beacons
fit this description: Cape Hatteras in North Carolina, Portland
Head in Maine, and Pigeon Point on the central coast of California.
Based on these criteria, East Brother light station would not
be considered typical. Its lighthouse is a rectangular, wooden
building, painted buff color with white trim. It is not especially
tall, and it overlooks a bay instead of an ocean.

In reality, though, East Brother was not at all an unusual
lighthouse during its heyday in the late nineteenth and early
twentieth centuries. Several other lighthouses were built on
the West Coast in the late 1800s using similar plans. It was
also one of about a dozen lighthouses built on greater San Francisco
Bay. Like other United States lighthouses, it was constructed
and operated by the federal government, primarily as a nighttime
aid to navigation.
Today, East Brother is unusual in that much of it has
been restored to its early-day appearance and function. A giant
cistern still stores rainwater for use on the island. Victorian-style
trim decorates the outside of the dwelling and tower. And the
mighty diaphone fog signal, installed in 1934, roars back to
life to the thrill of visitors. Guests can even stay overnight,
dining and sleeping where the different light-keepers lived for
nearly one hundred years. Today, as a living museum, East Brother
light station preserves an almost forgotten, yet important, part
of America's maritime history.
East Brother Island is one of two tiny islands on the east
side of San Pablo Strait, a two-mile-wide waterway connecting
San Francisco Bay with San Pablo Bay. The island covers just
three quarters of an acre. Neighboring West Brother, only a stone's
throw away, is even smaller. The only inhabitants on West Brother
are the flocks of gulls, cormorants, and pelicans that perch
on its rounded, rocky crest. East Brother had similar inhabitants
and a similar shape until 1873 when the federal government hired
contractors to blast off the top of the island and begin constructing
a light station.
The captains who guided ships through San Pablo Strait badly
needed a lighthouse. The strait connects the Golden Gate, San
Francisco, and other San Francisco Bay ports with inland ports
such as Stockton and Sacramento. Ships traveling to and from
the Mare Island Navy Yard must also pass through these waters.
Vessels that stray off course at night or in fog could easily
collide with the numerous rocky islands and nearby shoals.
The lighthouse, originally a six-room dwelling with an attached
tower for the light, was built at the west end of the island.
The government also had the workers construct a fog signal building,
workshop, wharf, boathouse, water tanks, cistern, and rain catchment
basin. Since the station was only accessible by boat, it was
equipped so that the keepers could meet most any sudden demand,
be it high winds, storm waves, or unexpected equipment failures.
About three dozen different men served at East Brother through
the years as keepers and assistants. They faithfully kept the
light burning each night, guiding ships across the bay waters.
Many of the keepers lived there with their families, who in later
years recalled with nostalgia their days on the island. It was
a peaceful life, away from the mainland rush, yet a life with
a special sense of duty and fulfillment.
Though the station was in many ways isolated from the mainland,
the world did not pass it by. As technology and the lighthouse
administration changed, so did operation of East Brother. In
1934 electricity replaced kerosene as energy for the light. That
same year compressed air replaced steam as power for the fog
signal. In later years rotating crews of Coast Guardsmen replaced
the keepers of the old U.S. Lighthouse Service.
In the late 1960s technology brought what was nearly the final
chapter in the station's history. The Coast Guard decided to
automate East Brother. To save on salaries and maintenance costs,
an automatic rotating beacon was installed in the lighthouse,
and the last resident personnel said goodbye to their island
home. Coast Guard officials had announced that the old buildings
would eventually be demolished and a light placed on a steel
or concrete tower. This, they said, would be easier to maintain
and less prone to vandalism. The announcement angered many local
citizens; they dearly loved the quaint old landmark and vowed
to save it.
In 1971, primarily through the efforts of the Contra Costa
Shoreline Parks Committee, the station was placed on the National
Register of Historic Places. This protected it from being razed,
but neither the Coast Guard nor other public agencies had funds
for maintaining or restoring the buildings. For ten years the
birds and natural elements reclaimed the island. The only people
who regularly visited it were Coast Guard service crews who periodically
checked the light and electronic fog signal. In the meantime
the paint peeled, the iron rusted, and the wood rotted.
In 1979 East Brother Light Station, Inc., a non-profit citizens'
group, was formed with the goal of restoring the landmark and
making it available for public use. The organization successfully
applied for a Maritime Preservation Matching Grant from the U.S.
Department of the Interior. The Coast Guard enthusiastically
supported the project and gave the organization a license to
occupy the island. With the help of private donations and hundreds
of volunteers, the lighthouse and other island structures were
restored and rehabilitated. The equivalent of $300,000 was put
into the project, which was completed in 1980. Today, day use
fees, operation as a bed and breakfast inn, and continued volunteer
help make upkeep and further restoration possible.
Unfortunately, many of California's lighthouses have not been
so lucky. Of the nearly fifty lighthouses that were built to
watch over California's seacoast and bays, fully a third either
no longer exist or have been so altered as to spoil much of their
aesthetic and historical value. This gives added importance to
East Brother, where not only the lighthouse but the entire station
is preserved. Several relatives and descendants of early keepers
have shared their remembrances of life on the island. The station
journals have also survived, giving virtually a daily record
of events at the station from first lighting in 1874 through
1945. All this makes the story of East Brother light station
an unusually rich, well documented, and personal history.
 
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